Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Surfing is Dangerous...and you Get Wet

As yesterday progressed, the breeze as forecast dropped sufficiently and early enough, to give the green light for an after work surf.

Sue reported that, through the increasingly misty conditions, there was indeed a wave. Thus the quick turnaround 'drill', so practised after I get in from the days toils, swung into action; to the bewilderment of a visiting friend, not used to such things.

Not unsurprisingly given the fact that it was now raining, she declined the opportunity to come see what all the fuss was about. Wouldn't want to get wet etc etc. Why would we???

Some folks just don't get it eh?

The conditions were obviously still in the process of improving when we turned up at Godrevy; a mixture of swell was though being dominated by one single source. Thus I opted for the longboard, and was pleased with my efforts to get out through some insistent white water.

An hour or so later though and, having had an exhilarating time and plenty of paddling practice to keep on the limited peaks, I came to the conclusion that it had been the wrong choice. In terms of fun that could have been had, given the lack of tangible 'feet on deck' time, that is.

Sue on the other hand had had plenty of riding action and chance to work on the tricks again. Throw in a nailing on the way in, where slight contact with fin drew blood from a cut on the hand; a trudge back to the car in persistent rain and a soggy, steamed up ride home. Then maybe the 'why do we it' thing could have crept in.

No! I don't think so either!

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